THE HERITAGE OF SOUTH BORNEO,INDONESIA

Maybe we have and are often seen from the types of motifs fabrics made with hands. In various parts of the world many tribes appreciate their creativity in the form of motifs and woven fabrics. For example Zanshi weaving and Boro from Japan, Sampot from Cambodia, Huipil from Mexico, Batik from Java tribe on the island of Java and others. Creativity of the fabric motifs contains elements of high art and philosophy from the manufacturer which is a form of their local identity.

Since Batik was declared by UNESCO as one of the world heritage on october 2nd 2009, the popularity of batik has significantly increased. Many people have worn batik for many occasions such as attending the wedding reception, working at office or going sightseeing. Batik has become familiar in our daily life. However, there's something more about batik that not many people know. If we gone to Solo there is Kampung Batik Laweyan and Kauman, in Cirebon is well-known as Batik Trusmi, so we also can find in Banjarmasin has Kampung Sasirangan as Batik Sasirangan. 
Sasirangan is traditional cloth that originally come from South Borneo, its similar with Batik, but it has different of making process.

In Banjar ethnic, textile pattern which is the result of creativity of the people called by Sasirangan. Sasirangan is a ethnic cloth of Banjar in South Kalimantan, which made its way baste stitch is then tied the rope and then dipped into dye. So, that bond produces certain motives.In Banjar ethnic, textile pattern which is the result of creativity of the people called by sasirangan. Sasirangan is tribal fabric Banjar in South Kalimantan, which made its way baste stitch is then tied the rope and then dipped into dye. So, that bond produces certain motives.

The History

According to several sources of folklore or tales, about XII century until XIV century in the Dipa kingdom, which first made sasirangan fabric is when the duke of Lambung Mangkurat be imprisoned for 40 days and 40 nights on the raft balarut banyu (follow the flow of river water). Towards the end of his meditation raft duke arrived in the area Rantau, Bagantung town, he saw some foam on the water. And in the froth of a woman's voice called Princess Bubble cherished. But he would surface if the conditions which he requested be granted, namely a palace Batung completed in a day and can be completed daily fabric is woven and dicalap (colored) by 40 daughters with the motive of rice / padiwaringin. From the time it was first made sasirangan fabric and is often called the Calapan fabrics that became known by the name of Sasirangan fabrics. Sasirangan first time also called Langgundi cloth; a woven fabric is colored yellow. Langgundi fabric is fabric that is used as an ingredient to make all citizens of the kingdom daily clothing Nagara Dipa kingdom.

Sasirangan originally known as the fabric to "batatamba" or healing the sick to be special ordered in advance (pamintaan) so that the fabric pembutan sasirangan pemesannya will often follow. Therefore, it is often called Banjar Urang sasirangan pamintaan fabric which means the request. In addition to the healing of people affected by the disease, this fabric is also a sacred fabric, commonly used in traditional ceremonies.

In the days of yore sasirangan fabrics are colored according to the intent, ie, as a complementary tool in the therapeutic treatment of a particular type of disease suffered by a person.

Sasirangan fabric is typical craft area of South Kalimantan (South Borneo). According to local elders, formerly used as Laung (a headband ), men wear belts, scarves and kakamban (hoods ) by women. This cloth is also a traditional dress worn during traditional ceremonies, and even used in the treatment of the sick. Far from its use upon a time, now no longer used sasirangan fabric to the spiritual. But it has become everyday clothing and apparel is characteristic of South Kalimantan. In South Kalimantan, fabric crafts sasirangan is one of the typical areas that need to be inherited, preserved and developed in the days ahead.

The Process of Sasirangan

The word "Sasirangan" comes from the word sirang (local language) which means tied or sewn by hand and pulled the thread or in termsof language dijelujur sewing. Sasirangan fabric made by using mori fabric, polyester, are sewn in a certain way. Then it washed with a variety of desired colors, resulting in a material dress patterned with colorful stripes or motifs that is unique and distinctive.

In the manufacture of sasirangan cloth, firstly  menyirang . Fabric is cut sufficiently tailored clothing for women or men. Then fabric painted with traditional motifs cloth, then disirang or sewn by hand is tenuous following the motif. Fabrics that have been stitched pulled stitching yarn in order to tighten the seams, so tightly puckered fabric and cloth are ready to enter the next process.
The second; preparation of dyes, dye used is a dye for batik. All dye for batik can be used for dyeing cloth sasirangan. But dyes are commonly used today are naphtol dyes with salt. Other materials as a maid are caustic soda (NaOH), TRO / Sepritus, boiling hot water. At first dye is taken in moderation, then diluted / made a paste by adding a TRO / methylated, then stir until all the soluble / dissolves. After all the dissolved substance, then added some drops of caustic soda and finally added with hot water and cold water as necessary. The solution should be clear / clear. To dissolve the dye naphtol is considered finished and already can be used to dye cloth sasirangan.

The method in making Sasirangan is similar to that in Javanese Batik, which applies the barrier coloring process. The difference is that Sasirangan uses barrier cloth such as string or yarn instead of wax and ‘canting’. The artist stitches the pre-made patterns on cloths, then bind the required patterns with string to avoid contamination with other colors, the fabric then dipped in dyes.

Traditionally, natural dyes were used for colors; turmeric roots were used to create yellow, karabintang fruit and areca nut to make red and brown colors, etc. Today chemical dye is more commonly used. This coloring process is called Pewarnaan Rintang, or color blockage. The last step is removing the stitches when the pattern designs would appear clearly. One cannot create an exact pattern because of the manual process. Unlike in contemporary Javanese batik printing, mass production of Sasirangan is not possible either. Productios of a simple piece of Sasirangan can take about 4 days, while the complex pieces require a few months to finish.

To create the desired color, then dye naphtol be generated with salt. To dissolve the salts thereof, taken in accordance with the purposes and then add hot water gradually while stirring, stirring vigorously so that all the dissolved substances and the clear solution obtained. The number of solutions tailored to the needs. Both the solution of naphtol and salt can already be used to dye cloth sasirangan, namely by first rubbing / brushing naphtol dyes on fabrics that have been disirang who later added to another / salt solution is applied so that there will be color on fabric that has been smeared according sasirangan with the desired color. Once all the fabric dyed, fabric washed until the washing water is colorless again.

Before the advent of synthetic dyes, fabrics using natural dyes used Sasirangan from nature, such as from Karamunting tree, Mengkudu fruit, Roots Kebuau, Gambier, Areca, and so forth. In addition to these natural dyes, fabric Sasirangan usually also use some materials from nature to strengthen the resilience of color, such as lime, alum, lime, and so forth.

After, the cloth is clean then released so that the seams are visible scar motives among existing colors on the cloth. Up here sasirangan fabric-making process has been completed and dried salanjutnya trimmed with iron and ready to be marketed. At the banjar society, sasirangan fabric has a variety of basic motifs that have been patented its kind. This is in order to maintain cultural values and banjo work. Some of the basic motives are as follows:

1. Bayam Raja
2. Bintang Bahambur
3. Daun Jaruju
4. Iris Pudak
5. Kambang Raja
6. Kambang Tampuk Manggis
7. Kambang Tanjung
8. Kangkung Kaombakan
9. Kulit Kayu
10. Kulit Kurikit
11. Jajumputan
12. Sari Gading
13. Naga Balimbur
14. Ombak Sinapur Karang
15. Turun Dayang
16. Sisik Tanggiling

Many people suggest that the production of Sasirangan was started around the 12th to 14th Century, during the period when King Lambung Mangkurat ruled over the Kingdom of Dipa in South Kalimantan. In the beginning, the particular type of fabric was recognized as Kain Pamintan or “Tailored Fabric” since each fabric was designed and made to specific requests. The particular motif and type of clothing were designed with the guide of a traditional healer or spiritual elder for purposes of spiritual ceremonies. During that time, only Shamans, or those who have the ability to cast out evil spirits, were allowed to make Kain Pamintan.

Nowadays, although it may have lost some of its spiritual aspects, Sasirangan has transcended its traditional form and has made its way to modern fashion. Since the 1980’s many sasirangan shirts and blouses were produced for daily and formal wear. This revival resulted in the birth of hundreds of small home industries since no special or heavy equipment is required. In Banjarmasin, capital of South Kalimantan, a center for Sasirangan production can be found at Sasirangan situated at the Kampung Melayu area. Since 2010 Sasirangan village has been appointed by the Tourism Office of Banjarmasin City government as one of the city’s top tourist destinations.